A little help please.....

[Fraser]

God dag,
First can I apologise to write in English... my written Danish is no so good.

My question, I have swapped out a Roca P30 kedel and have put in a Opop 16kw.  This has worked ok for a week now and saved 10kg a day in pellets!! I wanted to see how easy it was to clean and shut the burner down in the normal way. I cleaned the kedel and also move the electrical supply to the control box (Woody) and pump as the unit is going to mounted on the wall in a different position from before. Due to way the cables were run in the room I had to disconnect the cable from the Woody control box to the burner. I made a note of the way they were connected and replaced them in the same way. When I fired up the Woody control box the burner made a buzzing noise (50hz mains) and then knocked the power out at the fuse panel. I checked my connections again and used a meter to make sure they were connected to the right pins on the plug on the top of the burner unit. Checking an Installation PDF file, NBE Wood Pellets Burner Bio Comfort, that I down loaded from the Net. This appears to be the only one that is available so I assume that this is the correct one. I noticed the colour coding of some of the cables connected to the two motors on the circuit board that is in the burner are not in the correct place to that shown on the PDF circuit diagram, but as it has been working ok in the past so maybe this is not a problem. I think the motor that turns the screw in the burner is a Phase Shift one, so could the condenser that is connected to it be the problem? So the motor does not see a shift in the phase and then does not turn, this draws a lot of current and makes the buzzing noise then knocks the fuses out. I think the blower motor is not the problem but I could be wrong of course.

I wonder if anyone has any experience with this type of problem as I cannot see where I have gone wrong.

I thank you in advance.

Fraser

[MHES]

Hi Fraser,

Since everything has worked before you disconnected the cable and the problem occours after reconnected it again, it is easy to conclude that you have made a bad connection.
Only way is to check all connections from controlbox via plug/socket on burner to the terminals on the burner, and make sure they ar according to the diagram.
Also be sure that there are no shortcircuits between terminals in the controlbox, often you see just one core in the wire dooing the problem.

Best regards
Michael 

God dag,
First can I apologise to write in English... my written Danish is no so good.

My question, I have swapped out a Roca P30 kedel and have put in a Opop 16kw.  This has worked ok for a week now and saved 10kg a day in pellets!! I wanted to see how easy it was to clean and shut the burner down in the normal way. I cleaned the kedel and also move the electrical supply to the control box (Woody) and pump as the unit is going to mounted on the wall in a different position from before. Due to way the cables were run in the room I had to disconnect the cable from the Woody control box to the burner. I made a note of the way they were connected and replaced them in the same way. When I fired up the Woody control box the burner made a buzzing noise (50hz mains) and then knocked the power out at the fuse panel. I checked my connections again and used a meter to make sure they were connected to the right pins on the plug on the top of the burner unit. Checking an Installation PDF file, NBE Wood Pellets Burner Bio Comfort, that I down loaded from the Net. This appears to be the only one that is available so I assume that this is the correct one. I noticed the colour coding of some of the cables connected to the two motors on the circuit board that is in the burner are not in the correct place to that shown on the PDF circuit diagram, but as it has been working ok in the past so maybe this is not a problem. I think the motor that turns the screw in the burner is a Phase Shift one, so could the condenser that is connected to it be the problem? So the motor does not see a shift in the phase and then does not turn, this draws a lot of current and makes the buzzing noise then knocks the fuses out. I think the blower motor is not the problem but I could be wrong of course.

I wonder if anyone has any experience with this type of problem as I cannot see where I have gone wrong.

I thank you in advance.

Fraser

[Fraser]

Hej Michael,
Thanks for the reply.
I think I have checked and rechecked the connections. The only thing that worries me is that I have not got the connection diagram that came with the unit in the first place. That was not left after the orginal installation (for obvious reasons) by the installer. The company no long trades so there is no option to get those diagrams. I have the PDF file that is on all websites that gives a wiring diagram so I am going by that. I have orintated the plug so that the cable is pointing to me which appears to be how it is in the diagram. All connections are the same as this diagram and using a ohm meter on the connection points on the burner board to the control box they appear to be correct. I have feeling that the motor running the snail feeding the pellets to the fire is defective. I have swapped out the 0.8uf capacitor that goes with the motor with no change in the problem. If I disconnect this motor the control box boots up but gives an error there is no plug connected to the burner, which I would presume is correct as the control box can see something is missing......

I will have to wait till Monday and see if I can borrow a burner to test my theory regarding the motor being defective. So we will go to bed with a cold house and no warm water........  such is life


Kind regards

Fraser

Hi Fraser,

Since everything has worked before you disconnected the cable and the problem occours after reconnected it again, it is easy to conclude that you have made a bad connection.
Only way is to check all connections from controlbox via plug/socket on burner to the terminals on the burner, and make sure they ar according to the diagram.
Also be sure that there are no shortcircuits between terminals in the controlbox, often you see just one core in the wire dooing the problem.

Best regards
Michael 

God dag,
First can I apologise to write in English... my written Danish is no so good.

My question, I have swapped out a Roca P30 kedel and have put in a Opop 16kw.  This has worked ok for a week now and saved 10kg a day in pellets!! I wanted to see how easy it was to clean and shut the burner down in the normal way. I cleaned the kedel and also move the electrical supply to the control box (Woody) and pump as the unit is going to mounted on the wall in a different position from before. Due to way the cables were run in the room I had to disconnect the cable from the Woody control box to the burner. I made a note of the way they were connected and replaced them in the same way. When I fired up the Woody control box the burner made a buzzing noise (50hz mains) and then knocked the power out at the fuse panel. I checked my connections again and used a meter to make sure they were connected to the right pins on the plug on the top of the burner unit. Checking an Installation PDF file, NBE Wood Pellets Burner Bio Comfort, that I down loaded from the Net. This appears to be the only one that is available so I assume that this is the correct one. I noticed the colour coding of some of the cables connected to the two motors on the circuit board that is in the burner are not in the correct place to that shown on the PDF circuit diagram, but as it has been working ok in the past so maybe this is not a problem. I think the motor that turns the screw in the burner is a Phase Shift one, so could the condenser that is connected to it be the problem? So the motor does not see a shift in the phase and then does not turn, this draws a lot of current and makes the buzzing noise then knocks the fuses out. I think the blower motor is not the problem but I could be wrong of course.

I wonder if anyone has any experience with this type of problem as I cannot see where I have gone wrong.

I thank you in advance.

Fraser

[Fraser]

Hi Fraser,

Since everything has worked before you disconnected the cable and the problem occours after reconnected it again, it is easy to conclude that you have made a bad connection.
Only way is to check all connections from controlbox via plug/socket on burner to the terminals on the burner, and make sure they ar according to the diagram.
Also be sure that there are no shortcircuits between terminals in the controlbox, often you see just one core in the wire dooing the problem.

Best regards
Michael 

God dag,
First can I apologise to write in English... my written Danish is no so good.

My question, I have swapped out a Roca P30 kedel and have put in a Opop 16kw.  This has worked ok for a week now and saved 10kg a day in pellets!! I wanted to see how easy it was to clean and shut the burner down in the normal way. I cleaned the kedel and also move the electrical supply to the control box (Woody) and pump as the unit is going to mounted on the wall in a different position from before. Due to way the cables were run in the room I had to disconnect the cable from the Woody control box to the burner. I made a note of the way they were connected and replaced them in the same way. When I fired up the Woody control box the burner made a buzzing noise (50hz mains) and then knocked the power out at the fuse panel. I checked my connections again and used a meter to make sure they were connected to the right pins on the plug on the top of the burner unit. Checking an Installation PDF file, NBE Wood Pellets Burner Bio Comfort, that I down loaded from the Net. This appears to be the only one that is available so I assume that this is the correct one. I noticed the colour coding of some of the cables connected to the two motors on the circuit board that is in the burner are not in the correct place to that shown on the PDF circuit diagram, but as it has been working ok in the past so maybe this is not a problem. I think the motor that turns the screw in the burner is a Phase Shift one, so could the condenser that is connected to it be the problem? So the motor does not see a shift in the phase and then does not turn, this draws a lot of current and makes the buzzing noise then knocks the fuses out. I think the blower motor is not the problem but I could be wrong of course.

I wonder if anyone has any experience with this type of problem as I cannot see where I have gone wrong.

I thank you in advance.

Fraser

Hej Michael
Right I run again which is nice!! 
The problem was due to me reading the circuit diagram for the wiring the in the wrong way. I thought that the diagram of the burner board was looking from the top. So if a wire was connected to a pin on the left hand side of the plug viewed from the top this would be on the oppsite side (right) if viewed from the bottom. Connectiong the wires up viewing from the bottom of the board has everything working again correctly. When my original boiler was put in the electrician must coupled it up so that it worked and not as per the diagram, this why all the numbers on the cables were in the wrong positions in the control box. Anyway now sorted-

Thank you for your advice.

Kind regards

Fraser